Jewellery & Watch News
The emblematic Chronomat design is now offered in titanium, complete with all the much-loved hallmarks of the classic pilot’s watch
An Overview of the Chronomat’s Roots
When the renowned Italian Frecce Tricolori Jet team began looking for a chronograph for its pilots in the early 1980s, there could only be one brand capable – Breitling, with its Chronomat design. It needed to be elegant enough for pairing with a suit, but robust enough when used on duty. Ernest Schneider didn’t want to simply suggest an adaptation of an existing model, so he created a completely new chronograph. To prevent the glass from being broken when the pilots lifted the aircraft canopy (a regular problem), the watch was fitted with a recessed sapphire crystal, protected by the raised rider tabs on the bezel. Later those bold rider tabs were made reversible so that the bezel could be used for count-down and count-up functions.
Many special edition Chronomat watches were released for the squadron team after the 1983 model before Breitling decided to release the design as a mark of the brand’s 100th anniversary. It soon became a success, embodying the brand’s entire philosophy and mission. The Swiss Maison’s faithful following instantly appreciated how the Chronomat made for such a clever and functional tool in the cockpit, thanks to its smooth and streamlined case, easy-grip rider tabs and legible dial. The brand released a yachting version and a special Renault F1 team version, as well as two-tone configurations that donated a more opulent and refined finish to the wrist. Travelling businessmen, sportsmen, businessmen, jet setters and everyone in between could enjoy the Chronomat watch by Breitling. Despite its many aesthetical and technical modifications, the overall look of the Chronomat has remained intact ever since.
Due to its success, it became the first Breitling watch to benefit from the mechanical capabilities of the company’s first in-house movement, the Breitling Manufacture 01 Calibre back in 2009. In 2020, Breitling gave the Chronomat watch another overhaul, bringing back the Rouleaux bracelet, which had been developed exclusively for earlier Chronomat watches. This latest version, however, introduces a light material, chartering a new patch for the famous mechanical chronograph and representing the brand’s relentless pioneering spirit in Swiss watch manufacture.
If you thought that now the Breitling Chronomat has been adorned with brushed and polished finishes and equipped with the famous Rouleaux bracelet, you couldn’t love it more - you were wrong. The new titanium material is even more committed to delivering comfort and functionality and is once more fitted with the B01 powerhouse movement. The conical-shaped screw-down crown is still intact, while the push-pieces also retain their nice shape. The rider tabs are still interchangeable and the Rouleaux bracelet, complete with its deployment double folding clasp perfectly captures the modern-retro style that Breitling so often loves to tip its hat to.
The New Breitling Chronomat 42 and Super Chronomat 44 Titanium Watches
As mentioned, the new 42mm and 44mm models of the Chronomat range are now crafted from titanium for a comfortable and lightweight finish on the wrist. The larger of the two, the 44mm model, takes on the “Super” Chronomat name and features additional ceramic touches that give the timepiece a sportier look. Still, these models share many characteristics and features. Take, for example, the sapphire crystal glass front. Breitling chooses the same anti-reflective and scratch-resistant material for the reverse side of the case, where a view of the in-house movement has been afforded. The 42mm and 44mm models are both water-resistant to 300 meters and feature a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock to uphold this promise.
The anthracite dial of both new titanium Chronomat watches from Breitling is a nice touch. The models are fitted with a tachymeter scale around the flange to assist with measuring distances based on speed, yet the surrounding black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel adds a nice contrast to the dark grey colour of the dial. The bezel can be aligned with the central minute hand to measure elapsed time effortlessly. The rider tabs on the bezel mark out every fifteen minutes of this 60-minute scale and are designed for an easy grip, even under thick pilot’s gloves. The models are both chronograph complications, featuring sub-scales at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The 3 o’clock sub-dial offers a 30-minute counter, while the 6 o’clock location is where you can measure 12-hour intervals. At the 9 o’clock location, you get the small seconds function. Then, at the centre of the dial, a chalky light blue coloured chronograph seconds hand distinguishes itself from the central hour and minute hands that have been treated with a generous amount of Super-LumiNova. Then there is the Breitling logo at 12 o’clock, which beautifully matches the counterweight at the base of the central chronograph hand.
Powering the hands around the dial during stopwatch timings is the Breitling B01 Manufacture movement. As mentioned, the Chronomat watch was the first to benefit from this mechanical engine, complete with a power reserve of 70 hours and capable of performing at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Both the 42 and 44mm Chronomat and Super Chronomat watches from Breitling come in a choice of two straps. You can either opt for the traditional Rouleaux bracelet, now crafted in a matching titanium material, or you can opt for the rubber band option, designed in the same way as the Rouleaux bracelet, for a sportier finish on the wrist.
Secure your Breitling Chronomat 42 or Super Chronomat 44 Watch at C W Sellors Today
The newly released Breitling Chronomat Titanium watches are available to pre-order here at C W Sellors today. You can visit the collection and place an order online, or call and speak to a member of our sales team on 01335 216004. Alternatively, you can email us a question at sales@cwsellors.com
