Find a range of commonly used jewellery terms often used to describe natural gemstones, metals, manufacturing processes and styles of jewellery.
Alloy
A combination of two or more metals, for example Rose Gold is an alloy of pure gold and copper.
Baguette Cut
A gemstone cut where by the table (the surface of the stone) is in the shape of a long, narrow rectangle which is then bordered by four step cut facets.
Bar Brooch
A type of brooch in the form of a horizontal bar, often with decoration along its length or set with gemstones at its centre.
Bezel
A type of setting used most commonly on rings that wraps the rim of the gemstone in a completely metal edging. Bezel settings are considered one of the most secure and are best for protecting the gemstone.
Bolt Ring
A type of clasp found on bracelets and necklaces where a hollow circle is equipped with an internal spring operated clasp. The fastening is operated by a small lever that must be pulled down to open and closes on release.
Brilliant Cut
The style of cutting a gemstone, usually a diamond, by including many facets of different shapes and size. Brilliant cut diamonds are considered to have the most brilliance (sparkle) of all diamond cuts because the increase in facets minimizes the amount of light that escapes from the bottom of the stone. Most brilliant cut diamonds consist of 58 facets, 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion.
Cabochon
A stone cut with a domed, smooth and rounded surface. A cabochon gemstone has no facets and usually comes highly polished.
Carat
The unit of weight for a diamond or other gemstone. There are 100 points to every 1 carat.
Channel Setting
A style of setting to secure a row of identically sized and shaped stones, whereby the stones sit within two parallel walls of metal which are then pushed together to hold the stones in place.
Claw Setting
A style of setting which involves the gemstone being held into place by a several vertically projecting prongs or claws. The claws are pushed over the stone to secure it into place.
Crown
The upper part of a cut gemstone. The crown can be found above the girdle and below the table.
Curb Chain
A chain constructed of lots of tiny links interlocked with each other.
Cushion Cut
A style of cutting a gemstone shaped as a square or rectangule with rounded corners. Cushion cut diamonds and gemstones have a similar appearance to the shape of pillows, hence its name. Although they generally have less brilliance than brilliant cut gemstones, cushion cut stones have better fire (the coloured sparkle that you can see when the stone is exposed to light).
Culet
The point at the base of a brilliant cut gemstone or diamond. These appear as a small flat facet on old-cut diamonds.
Cut
The final form into which a rough gemstone is shaped.
Emerald Cut
The style of cutting a gemstone, usually a diamond or emerald, where the shape or table of the stone is square or rectangular. Emerald cut gemstones also have chamfered corners and step cut sides.
Facets
One of the small, flat surfaces of a cut gemstone. Facets come in various shapes and sizes and the type of facets used depend on the style of cut. Different types of facets cast different reflections of light and thus create different styles of sparkle.
Fire
Diamond fire is the coloured sparkle that you see when the stone and its facets are exposed to light. Like the shades seen in a rainbow, diamond fire is caused by light that has been broken down into different colours. Unlike a diamond’s fire, brilliance is the colourless light reflected from the stone.
Gold
The most malleable and ductile of all metals, Gold is unalterable by heat and moisture and will never tarnish. Pure gold is too soft for practical use alone and so is alloyed with its purity expressed in carats:
9ct – 37.5% or 375 parts out of 1000 pure 24ct gold.
18ct – 75% or 750 parts out of 1000 pure 24ct gold.
Alloys of silver, copper and zinc are then added in different quantities for hardness and durability.
Girdle
The thin band that forms the widest circumference of a diamond or gemstone. The girdle separates the crown above it from the pavilion below.
Hallmark
The mark or marks stamped on items of gold, silver, platinum or palladium jewellery that attests the purity of the metal. In compliance with legally established standards, all jewellery sold that contains these metals must be hallmarked according to the Hallmarking Act 1973. Each mark includes a date letter, a maker’s mark and an assay mark to indicate the office that does the assaying.
Lap Setting
A gemstone which is set down into the bezel with the top of the stone protruding upwards. The stone in a lap setting is cut back down into a domed shape which sits flush with the top of the bezel.
Lobster Clasp
A type of clasp found on the chains of necklaces and bracelets shaped like a lobster claw, hence its name. A lobster clasp is opened by holding down a small lever and is closed on release by a small spring.
Marcasite
These are small, faceted stones made from an iron ore called Hematite. They are a dark grey, metallic colour and usually seen in clusters to exude a mesmerising sparkle.
Marquise Cut
A style of gemstone cut whereby the stone is cut into a boat or eye-like shape with points at the top and bottom.
Moh’s Scale
The Moh’s Scale of Hardness is the most common method used to rank gemstones and minerals according to their hardness. Gemstones ranked 1 are considered the softest while 10 are the hardest. The diamond is the only gemstone to be ranked at 10 making it the hardest known material in the world. Moh’s Scale of Hardness was devised by German mineralogist Friedrich Moh in 1812.
Mother of Pearl
Available in white, grey, pink and black, Mother of Pearl is a shining iridescent substance found in the inner layer of shells. Usually seen in molluscs, oysters and abalones, Mother of Pearl is a soft material with a lustrous and polished finish reminiscent to the iridescence of pearls.
Pavé Setting
A style of setting in which many small gemstones are set close together to conceal the metal and settings beneath them. Pavé comes from the French word ‘to pave’, literally meaning to pave something in diamonds.
Pavilion
The part of a diamond or brilliant cut stone found below the girdle and above the culet.
Pear or Teardrop Cut
A style of cutting where the gemstone is shaped into a pear or teardrop shape with a point at the top and a rounded bottom.
Plating
A method which involves depositing a thin layer of precious metal over another metal base. For example, gold plating involves applying a thin layer of gold over copper or silver.
Platinum
The most valuable and rare of all the white metals, Platinum is a very heavy metal and does not tarnish. Its name is derived from the Spanish term platino, meaning "little silver".
Point
A unit of weight for a diamond or other gemstone. There are 100 points to every 1 carat.
Post and Butterfly Fastening
One of the most common clasps on earrings, post and butterfly fastenings consist of a metal disk shaped like a butterfly with a hole in the centre to attach through the post of the earring.
Princess Cut
A style of cutting similar to a brilliant cut diamond but instead in a rounded shape. Princess cut diamonds are sometimes also referred to as Quadrillion or Squarillion cut.
Rose Gold
When pure gold is alloyed with copper to make a rose pink colour. Like white gold, rose gold is an alloy so pure rose gold does not exist.
Rub-Over Setting
A style of setting a gemstone whereby metal is pushed over the girdle of the stone to secure it in place.
Seed Pearl
A very small, round pearl found naturally or cultured. Seed pearls are usually less than 2mm in diameter.
Setting
The method in which a stone or stones are secured into a piece of jewellery.
Step Cut
A style of gemstone cutting where a number of sloping, parallel, four sided facets are cut below the table that increase in size as they approach the girdle and then decrease as they descend to the culet, thus giving the impression of steps.
Sterling Silver
An alloy of silver that when used for jewellery in the UK has a fineness of 0.925 parts silver and 0.075 copper.
Vermeil
Like plating, Vermeil is a method which involves depositing a thin layer of precious metal over another metal base.
White Gold
An alloy of gold with a high percentage of other white metals to make it a pale gold colour. It is then plated with rhodium for a bright white finish.
